Looking pristine The Queens
The Queens pub in North London’s Crouch End is something of a landmark in the area and known very well to me as a local of the area. The Grade II-listed boozer has undergone a £150,000 restoration that fully highlights its grand Victorian interiors.
It is particularly renowned for its striking Art Nouveau stained-glass windows, intricate plasterwork, ornate moulded ceilings and rich dark wood panelling.
The investment comes from owners Urban Pubs & Bars (operated by industry stalwarts Nick Pring and Malc Heap) who’ve built a collection of over 60 pubs in the capital.
The strategy at The Queens, they articulate, is to protect its historic features in order to create a setting that reflects the quality of the food and drink experience on offer.
The food is served in a lovely airy (on my visit a hot summer evening) that feels roomy and chilled. The relaunch showcases modern British pub dining and has seasonality at its heart.
This was very evident in my choices. A starter of cured sea bream with cucumber and dill was very refreshing and well suited to the summer months.
This was followed by – more fish on a Friday – Cornish roast hake. It was a chunky piece of fish who’s flaky body was held together by its tasty crispy skin. Its accompanying ratatouille added a depth through its smokiness.
Notable mention must go to the lovely oyster beignet that sat atop the hake. I’d have eaten a batch of these and reckon they should be available as a starter or bar snack.
What better way to round off a summer’s evening dining than the Eton mess that had a refreshing lime curd running through it alongside pistachio (why not).
This was washed down with a carafe of cool Chardonnay. I am a big fan of this size of serving and am pleased to say there were many to choose from at The Quuens. Mention must go to the pub’s lovely team who very much looked after us and made it a most enjoyable family outing.
Glynn Davis, editor, Beer Insider
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