Brewing up history and modernity
Visiting Barcelona for tours around the enormous modern Damm facility at the El Prat brewery next to the airport and then the original Old Brewery in the centre of the city, the two experiences could not have been more different.
In the former the use of cameras and filming devices is strictly off limits for visitors while at the latter it is actively encouraged. As well as the potential for capturing trade secrets there is maybe also an element that companies such as Damm prefer to portray the romantic idea of brewing rather than the reality of modern day industrial scale mechanised beer production.
The fact is that when you want to brew at scale then the need for vast factories is inescapable. The more important point is how the beers are brewed. Cutting corners and maximising output at the cost of reducing taste and quality is undoubtedly a preoccupation of accountants at many large breweries.
At the independently-owned Damm brewery it’s not a discussion. The process still involves one week in fermentation tanks and then a further two weeks of ageing for its flagship Estrella beer. This period means that as much as 3.5 million litres of beer can be sat in tanks at El Prat on any given day. Alongside the array of tanks the enormous sheds handle hundreds of thousands of cans and bottles each day as different shifts keep the plant running 24 hours a day.
Despite the volumes the brewery requires only a modest workforce of 400 people. When wandering around the facility the sight of people is a rarity as most of the activity is automated. Laser-guided vehicles have been moving pallets of beer around the place for a good 15 years and robots and automation will likely play an even bigger role in the future.
This is a world away from what took place at the Old Brewery site where founder August Kuentzmann Damm and Joseph Damm first began brewing in 1876 and quickly developed the Estrella beer with its refreshing flavour profile helped by the interesting addition of cereal (rice). Brewing continued on the site until 1992 when the El Prat site took over production from the central Barcelona site that is now used for tours and events all year round. Its presence helps keep Damm closely linked to its history and strong connections to the city.
The company is looking to bring this essence to the UK in a way that it says is both meaningful to British people while staying true to the core values of authenticity and way of life that it has built up in Barcelona. To this end it is in the midst of a major investment programme in brewing locally in the UK. It’s a move that aligns closely with its long-standing commitment to sustainability. It is reducing transport-related emissions and lowering its carbon footprint without compromising on quality.
It says it is to use the same ingredients, the same recipe, and the same dedication to brewing excellence—just that it is in Bedford (at the Eagle Brewery) rather than in Barcelona at El Prat.
Much derision is aimed at supposedly overseas beers that are not actually brewed in those countries but are instead brewed in the UK. I don’t agree. As long as there is no hoodwinking of drinkers and the quality is maintained then surely this is a sensible approach because it is much more sustainable. And on top of this it invariably involves investment in some form in the UK.
The grand plan for Damm is to increase its international beer sales from 20% of total revenues to 25% by 2027 and the UK is at the heart of its objectives as it represents the company’s biggest territory outside of its home market. Luke White, MD of Damm UK, says the Eagle Brewery and the UK will very much be a test market for what could be done in other countries.
The Bedford-based brewery has been completely overhauled from when it was owned by Charles Wells and then Marston’s. The works are due to be completed at the end of the month when the flagship Estrella alongside an array of other beers and non-alcoholic beverages will be produced and roll off the production line. Bedford is not quite Barcelona but I still look forward to visiting the brewery.
Glynn Davis, editor of Beer Insider
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