Long overdue return to the Jamaica Wine House

It’s been some years since I’ve ventured down the alleyways off Cornhill in the City of London and nipped into the historic Jamaica Wine House for refreshments. I shouldn’t have left it so long. What a beautiful pub.

With the opening of The Jamaica Clubhouse, a new venue downstairs in the JWH I was prompted to make a return visit to a part of London where I worked for around eight years, to reacquaint myself with the venue. Owner Shepherd Neame has done a very fine job with the new bar that had an enjoyable buzz on the Saturday night of my visit.

Previously the pub had been closed during weekends but with its new basement bar now operating the place is now open from 5:30pm to 9pm on Saturdays. There is something wonderful about the City and its pubs on weekend evenings when they are relatively calm compared with the mayhem that ensues during the working week when finance types throng the alleyways clutching their beers and cocktails. I’m reliably informed that the JWH is a very serious contributor to Shepherd Neame’s overall revenues.

During my visit it was a great pleasure to luxuriate in the pubs history and ambience. The site it sits on is recognised as the birthplace of London’s coffee house scene, with the first coffee house established on the site in 1652. These were social venues where financial trading originated. The décor of art and old photos of the City are complemented by the very low lighting throughout the pub. This creates a super atmosphere.

The new Clubhouse downstairs combines classic Victorian features with rich red décor, velvet seating and closely arranged tables, alongside quirky touches including a small booth complete with its own disco ball.

There’s a decent range of beers on offer and I enjoyed one of my favourites – First Drop on keg – and the seasonal Late Red on cask. And there is English wine by the glass, which I’m pleased to say is a feature of all Sheps pubs. There’s also a new cocktail menu that has been created specifically for the Clubhouse.

Foods is limited to bagged snacks although a partnership has been struck with burger restaurant Honest Burgers, enabling customers to order from its app and have the food delivered to their table in the pub.

The basement venue is set to host a programme of Cellar Sessions, including live music, tastings and cocktail-making workshops, which provides yet another reason to visit but for me the Saturday night session is the winner.

Glynn Davis, editor, Beer Insider