Beer for thought at Brewers’ Congress

It was a flying visit this week by Beer Insider to the Brewers Congress, held by the Brewers Journal, but we caught a couple of interesting presentations as well as enjoyed catching up with some familiar faces including some legends in the industry.

Mark Tranter, founder of Burning Sky, cantered through the 10-plus years since he founded the Sussex-based brewery that has built a worldwide reputation for its quality output. Inspired by barrel-aged and mixed fermentation beers he highlighted how these brews are supported by the easier selling “fast” pale ales and other regular beers.

Among them is Arise, which today accounts for 30% of production, and has constantly changed in characteristics over its nine year lifetime. The need to change is paramount in today’s tough market but this has to be handled carefully, according to Tranter.

“It’s a fickle marketplace. Trends come and go. The ultimate beer style has been ‘new’ and you can respond to this but you can lose your identification,” he warns.

Tranter has had to accept making certain changes that appear inconsequential but have had a positive impact on sales. These include selling his flagship Saison Provision in cans and not purely in 750ml bottles. The use of Saison as the style type has also been side-lined as referring to such beers as rustic or farmhouse has been leading to more sales.

Jorma Tikkanen joined the Brewers Congress from Finland to tell the story of his Do Good Brew Co. that produces bespoke beers for Michelin-starred restaurants. By brewing specifically for dishes on tasting menus he reckons there is an opportunity to open the eyes of chefs to inserting beers on the wine lists that are matched to the food courses.

By developing beers in collaboration with the restaurants he has built a list of high profile clients in Finland, Estonia and in the UK where he has teamed up with the two Michelin star Restaurant Story.

The bespoke beers include the likes of Pea & Lemon Thyme with White Asparagus as well as Brown Butter beer. Both retail in the restaurants at the equivalent of a pour of wine – around the Euros 12-14 level for a 330ml can that can serve two pours.

Both styles were certainly thought-provoking and it is hoped that Tikkanen can make some headway on the stranglehold that wine has on lists in smart restaurants.

Glynn Davis, editor, Beer Insider