Book review – ‘Ale City – St Albans’ Beer History and Remarkable Pubs’

St Albans is a city I’ve visited infrequently even though each time has involved thoroughly enjoyable forays into its wonderful pubs. I’m not sure why I’ve not been more often but I’m definitely planning to return very soon as I’ve just completed reading a new book on the history of the city and its pubs.

The recently-published ‘Ale City – St Albans’ Beer History and Remarkable Pubs’ by Roger Protz (from Amberley Publishing) takes readers on a journey through the history of the city and onto its pubs in their current form, with many retaining much of their historical fabric. Roger acknowledges the work of Will Lewis for his photographs used throughout the book and the research of the late Martyn Cornell.

Roger is a great guide for this particular story because not only is he one of the most celebrated beer writers (probably the most celebrated living writer of the genre) but he is a long-time resident of St Albans and clearly loves the city.

And what’s not to love because as he points out it has more pubs per square mile than any other town or city in the UK with 50-plus boozers, including three new ones no less. He begins the story very early on (it’s a place with lots of history) and romps through the Iron Age and Roman period before bringing us to the time when the monks were brewing in St Albans.

Everybody seemed to be in on the act in fact because incredibly in 1353 there were 81 brewers in the town among a population of only 2,500. Roger points out that many likely had other occupations too – thankfully, for the town’s health. The book really comes alive when he moves onto his selection of the key pubs in St Albans and none is more notable than Ye Olde Fighting Cocks.

I’ve enjoyed visits to this odd-shaped pub and luxuriated in its history while being still shocked at the thought of its days hosting cock fighting. Roger dispels some of the myths about its age and history but it’s still an essential pub to visit when in the town. He then tells the story of other memorable St Albans pubs in his typical readable style that incorporates historical facts with personal thoughts and anecdotes.

I particularly liked his comments on the Snug cocktail bar that for centuries was called the Fleur de Lys pub: “As a result of its listed status, surely Historic England should put pressure on the owners to restore the inn’s original name, remove the intrusive neon sign and serve some good beers.”

Good pubs serving good beers is what Roger has committed many decades to finding and sharing with the readers of his output that has encompassed many books, newspaper and magazine articles. He has also edited numerous editions of The Good Beer Guide.

Across the book’s easily digestible 90-plus pages Roger brings you the pick of his pubs and I for one will now be heading back to this historically rich city to soak up its heritage and beers in its numerous superb boozers. The real bonus would be if I were to bump into Roger.

Glynn Davis, editor, Beer Insider