Desert Island Pubs – Gerard Flynn, director, True Pub Co.

Beer Insider is pleased to bring you the latest Desert Island Pubs column, supported by Sunrise Beverages. So settle in and enjoy reading the stories behind the selection of pubs from…

Gerard Flynn, director, True Pub Co.

1. Earliest Memory of a Pub

The Crooked Billet, Upper Clapton. My dad took it on in 1989 having never run a pub before, and it wasn’t exactly the easiest time to be Irish in London. Looking back, it was a tough pub in a tough area, but as a kid it just felt like home whenever we came over from Ireland. Dad built an incredible community there and somehow managed all sorts of characters while keeping the place in harmony. Without realising it at the time, I learned how to read a room, think quickly, and de-escalate situations before they became problems. It taught me early that when there’s no Plan B, Plan A has to work.

2. Most Inspirational Pub to my Career

O’Connell’s, Galway. For me O’Connell’s is one of the best examples of what a pub should be. They’ve created something that feels completely timeless as though it’s been there forever yet parts of it were built from scratch only a few years ago. That’s incredibly hard to do. It has all the warmth, charm and authenticity of a traditional Irish independent, but operationally it runs like a super-pub. Galway gets serious footfall, so the place gets absolutely rammed, yet they somehow manage volume, flow, logistics and hospitality without losing the soul of the pub. What I particularly admire is how they’ve made the outdoor garden feel like a true extension of the venue usable all year round and just as atmospheric as being inside. It packs huge numbers but still feels warm, safe, personal and welcoming which is hard to do.

The Royal Oak, Woodford Green, is also an inspiration. We opened it in 2014 and we got so much wrong – including the pub layout, kitchen flow, systems, and controls. The lot. At one stage we were literally walking plates through the car park to get food to some parts of the pub. But it became one of the most important learning experiences of my career. It taught me how to run a more sophisticated operation with food, guest experience, planning, and upselling without losing the soul and the craic of a proper pub. My then-girlfriend, now wife, stepped in when service was chaos and genuinely helped save the place. It also taught me that if you get the foundations right and engrain them solid then the growth will compound.

3. My Current Local

This is a split decision. I live in Chiswick, which is lovely, but not exactly where I go searching for old-school pub craic. The Swan in Chiswick is a brilliantly run neighbourhood pub proper worn-in charm, consistently good, and never trying too hard. But if we’re talking where I genuinely love going for pints, it’s Mc & Sons in Borough. Johnny and Ryan put real thought into every detail, but it still feels effortless and welcoming, which is exactly what a pub should be.

4. My Favourite Pub

Grogan’s, Dublin. I’m biased, but Dublin pubs take the trade seriously. Grogan’s is the pinnacle of simplicity – brilliant Guinness, toasties behind the bar, zero interest in trends or reinvention. It knows exactly what it is and sticks to it. That clarity is what makes it special. Everyone gets it the second they walk in. It’s basically like having pints in your granny’s sitting room, if your granny happened to pour one of the best Guinness’ in Dublin.

5. The Pub you’d like to take to the Island

The Dog & Bell, Deptford. A desert island pub needs to do a few jobs – be comfortable enough to settle into, lively enough that you’d never get bored, and full of good people. The Dog & Bell ticks all of those boxes. Seamus has done an incredible job there, not just with the pub but helping breathe life into the surrounding area too. There’s always something interesting going on, so if I’m stuck on an island, I’d back him to keep everyone entertained with random events that are heaving.

6. The beer (unlimited supply) you’d take to the desert island?

Guinness. I’m Irish. If I picked anything else, I’m fairly sure they’d confiscate my passport the next time I go back.

Glynn Davis, editor, Beer Insider

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