Hidden diversion from beer

Tucked away down an attractive alleyway in London’s Shoreditch sits the tiny Umbrella Workshop that houses an atmospheric off-licence that also serves some sharp cocktails to destination drinkers who’ve come to imbibe the vibes and lift the spirits.

If that all sounds a tad flowery the cocktails are certainly not. Our visit coincided with the bar taking part in a week-long celebration of World Martini Day involving The Boatyard Distillery and Cocchi Vermouth who joined forces to launch The East London Martini Map that includes Umbrella Workshop.

The idea is to celebrate the continued rise of the martini as one of today’s defining cocktails and The East London Martini Map aims to celebrate both the timeless appeal and modern reinvention of the cocktail, while spotlighting the neighbourhood bars shaping London’s current drinks scene.

Comfortably seated at the compact bar we tried the Umbrella Vesper – comprising Boatyard Vodka, Boatyard Gin, Cocchi Extra Dry Vermouth and Vichy Catalan. James Bond would definitely have said it ‘blew the doors off’ if he’d accidentally found himself on the set of The Italian Job.

The perkiness of the Vesper was nicely offset by the bar’s Figure Of Speech cocktail – comprising Boatyard Gin, Cocchi Extra Dry Vermouth, Fig Leaf and Crème de Pear – that had a pleasant undercurrent of sweetness while still sprightly. But not Spritzy! There’s far too many Sptitzes around.

As a fan of smoke and general fishiness I had to go for the Sweet Child of Brine (hats off to the playful names at Umbrella Project) that was made from Boatyard Gin, fish sauce, plum wine and the addition of 10ml of Mezcal to give it that hit of smoke.

We were told this is very much a love or hate it cocktail. I’m very much in the latter camp. The smokiness reminded me of one of my favourite beers – Schlenkerla Marzen – that is brewed in Bamberg, Germany, and definitely divides opinion.    

Another cleverly named cocktail came next, with Mango Unchained, although I can’t remember much about it as I was concentrating too much on the brininess of Sweet Child of Brine.  

Although the Martini trail across East London only lasted throughout the week to June 20 I’m pleased to say Umbrella Project is not only for Martini Week.

Glynn Davis, editor, Beer Insider